Day 4 - Tuscany Awaits! - Tuesday, May 19, 2009
This morning we will leave the bustling city of Rome via train to Orvieto. I think the train ride will be a good experience for you to see how many Europeans travel for work and holiday. We will ride a funiculare into the grand hill town of Orvieto. (Which is actually in the region of Umbria.) The town sits majestically a thousand feet above the valley floor. It was one of the major dozen Etruscan cities. Orvieto's main claim to fame is its magnificent cathedral with its colorful Gothic facade of mosaics, stained glass and sculptures. Inside, the Chapel of San Brizio is a must-see artistic sight. It features Luca Signorelli's brilliantly lit frescos of the Apocalypse. Signorelli's ability to tell a story through human actions and gestures, rather than symbols, inspired his younger contemporary, Michelangelo, who meticulously studied the elder artist's nudes.
Next we take time for lunch and a taste of Orvieto's second claim to fame, its dry white wine, Orvieto Classico. Le Grotte del Funaro ristorante is set in a tufa cave and serves delicious regional cuisine. Afterwards, we can enjoy a stroll through the medieval streets of Orvieto before we drive into the lovely Tuscan countryside. It will not take long for you to breathe a little easier as you realize you have entered one of the most beautiful and peaceful spots on earth.
Your first chance to experience a true Tuscan village will be in Pienza, our home for the next two nights. Pienza is one of the most picturesque towns in Tuscany. It is the perfect Renaissance town due to a complete renovation with Vatican clout and money by Pope Pius II. He completely rebuilt his hometown of Corsignano and renamed it Pienza (Pio's Town). You will enjoy its quaint streets and shops. The films 'Romeo and Juliet' and 'The English Patient' were filmed here. Tonight we will dine in a simple pizzeria (where they give you scissors to cut your pizza) after toasting our journey thus far with a glass of Vino Nobile de Montepulciano, the red wine produced in the area, from the panoramic promenade next to the Duomo. The views will astound you! (B) (L) (D)
Day 5 - Vino e Molto Vino! - Wednesday, May 20, 2009
Today will be a wonderful day of sightseeing and experiencing every true Italian's love, food and wine. We will visit Bagno Vignoni, only a short drive from Pienza. This is another tiny hamlet with one of the most unusual squares in Italy. The great Medici family harnessed the naturally hot sulfur springs percolating from the ground by building a giant outdoor pool that fills the main square.
We then head to Montalcino. You will see Montalcino standing proud in the distance long before we reach its ancient walls. This area is known for its famous red wines. The Brunello and Rosso de Montalcino are known all over the world. We will have the opportunity to taste this "nectar of the Gods". First we will stop at the world renown Casanova di Neri, featured in 'Wine Spectator' magazine. Then we head to the beautiful setting of Castello Banfi. We will stop into their lovely Enoteca for an aperitif before we feast on Tuscan cuisine at La Taverna Banfi. Our multi-course meal will be accompanied by Banfi wines. There will be time to walk around the castle complex and even visit the Glass museum if you would like. We might even have time for the Banfi Winery tour.
Afterwards, we will make a stop at Sant 'Antimo, a lovely monastery, on our way back to Pienza. One of the finest Romanesque churches in Tuscany, it originally formed part of a 9th century Benedictine monastery founded, according to legend, by Charlemagne himself. The present building begun in 1118 is exquisite, with its elegant tower and rounded apse. An important monastic community once flourished here, and there are still some monks about. If you hit at the right time, you might be able to hear their Gregorian chants.
We should arrive back in Pienza with time to enjoy the sunset on the Via Amore. Dinner on your own in any of the wonderful little spots in Pienza. (B) (L)
Day 6 - Bella Tuscany! - Thursday, May 21, 2009
Take some time this morning to enjoy Pienza. There really are some wonderful photo opportunities here, along with several lovely shops. You may want to visit the Palazzo Piccolomini, the Pope's family home. The tour takes you through the Pope's private apartments and out on the loggia to see the gardens. Try some of the locally produced pecorino cheese and procuitto ham for lunch. After lunch we head North into Chianti. This area if famous for its wonderful red wines.
On the way to Chianti we will stop at one of Tuscany's most popular and loved towns, Siena. At one time Siena was one of the most populated and powerful cities in Tuscany with its merchants and bankers trading all over Europe. The city flourished with an impressive production of architecture and art. Sadly, in the 14th century Siena was struck hard by the black plague and famine. It then lost its independence to its lifelong rival Florence. The cities' medieval character has survived to an amazing extent. Siena's heart is the shell shaped Piazza del Campo. This is one of Italy's most famous and most beautiful squares. The Palio, a renowned horse race takes place twice a year right here. It is hard to imagine horses racing bareback frantically around for about 90 seconds in this area. This is a great place to just relax and enjoy the beauty of the Fountain of Joy and City Tower standing proudly over all of Siena.
We then will make our way up the hill to visit Siena's impressively ornate Duomo. The inside is as ornate as the outside and contains works of art by Michelangelo, Pisano and Bernini. The Piccolomini Library has some of the most stunning frescos depicting the life of Pope Pius II. (Remember, we stayed in his hometown of Pienza last night.)
Finally, we will continue on to our destination for the next two nights, Radda in Chianti, a lovely spot with beautiful views of vineyards and olive groves. After time to settle in and relax, we will meet near the pool to enjoy a glass of our hotels own wine and learn a little about Italian vino. One of my favorite pizza places is located near here. The pizza is "to die for"! I know you will enjoy it too. (B) (D)
Day 7- The Villa Table - Friday, May 22, 2009
Today you have the exciting opportunity to participate in the renown cooking class, "The Villa Table", which takes place in the 12th century abbey and wine estate of Badia a' Coltibuono. The cooking school offers a unique opportunity to immerse in the flavors and lifestyle of Chianti. You work in the large family kitchen and learn to prepare a full menu from bread to desserts. Afterwards, you will enjoy the fruits of your labor in the villa's private dining room while sampling the estates wines and extra virgin olive oils during lunch.
The ancient monastery of Coltibuono is one of my favorite places in Tuscany. After lunch we will be given a private, guided tour of the cloisters, ancient ageing cellars and renaissance gardens. On our way out we will stop at a little shop where you can purchase products from Coltibuono, as well as ceramics hand-made by local artists. (If cooking class is unavailable, we will have lunch at the renown restaurant at Badia a' Coltibuono, followed by tour.) Also, if participating in a cooking class, no matter how fun, is not your thing, then you are welcome to stay in Radda and enjoy the hotel pool or just exploring the village.
After leaving, we will make a short stop in the tiny jewel of a hill-town, Vertine. It only has about 50 residents.
We will then return to the hotel where you will have the rest of the evening to enjoy relaxing by the pool or dining in one of the wonderful spots in town. (B) (L)
Day 8 - La Dolce Vita! - Saturday, May 23, 2009
It will be hard to leave this heavenly location today, but do not be discouraged. There are wonderful surprises waiting around every bend in Tuscany. Our first stop will surely take your breath away on first sight. The perfectly walled village of Monteriggioni is one of Tuscany's most precious. It is tiny and will only take a few minutes to walk around. You will marvel at the circular shape of its legendary walls that are crowned by 14 square towers. These towers have survived more or less intact since the day Dante likened them to the 'circle of Titans guarding the lowest level of Hell'. There is a great artisan jewelry shop with handmade items that are really unusual. If the weather is clear, you may want to walk around the ramparts for never-ending views of the Chianti countryside.
We will also make a stop at Fattoria San Donato, a picturesque farm for a little wine tasting on our way to San Gimignano. Known for its towers, San Gimignano is considered by many to be Tuscany's most beautiful medieval village. It is truly one of my favorites. Our hotel is located right on the Piazza Cisterna. The cistern in this piazza has been in use since the 9th Century. Our hotel has wonderful views overlooking the surrounding countryside dotted with olive groves and vineyards. The local wine is the Vernaccia, a fruity bianco, said to be a favorite of Michelangelo. Our hotel, along with San Gimignano itself was featured in the film, 'Tea With Mussolini'. There will be time to rest or take part in the local passegiatta (evening walk) before our dinner "with a view" tonight at the excellent restaurant in our hotel. Also don't forget to try the award winning gelato spot on the Piazza Cisterna. (B) (D)
Day 9 - La Dolce far Niente! - Sunday, May 24, 2009
Today is for "the sweetness of doing nothing". San Gimignano seems to be everyone's favorite stop on the tour. You will have the whole day to shop, rest or explore the lovely village on your own. Perhaps rent some bikes. (Maybe climb the Torre Grande.) Beware, there are some of the best artisan shops right down the street. This has always been an important trading center. It was on the famous Via Francigena: the most traveled of the medieval roads that pilgrims traveled to Rome. From the 8th Century, it was the route through France that linked Canterbury Cathedral in England and Rome, the heart of Christianity. Today you will find locally owned shops selling ceramics, soaps, leather goods, etc. You will find a great selection of paintings and prints of the Tuscan area. In the afternoon, you can join me for an optional walking tour around town followed by a power-walk around the ancient walls surrounding San Gimignano. Dinner on your own tonight in any of the wonderful restaurants found in San Gimignano. (B)
Day 10 - Buon Appetito! - Monday, May 25, 2009
Its farewell to San Gimignano as we head to Florence, the capital of Tuscany. First we make one last stop in Chianti to visit the 11th century Verrazzano Castle and Winery. This is one of the oldest wine estates in Tuscany. After a guided tour of the castle grounds and cellars, we will feast on a lunch of homemade Tuscan favorites accompanied by a range of delicious wines made by the Verrazzano winery. You will also have the opportunity to learn the art of wine tasting in this relaxed and amusing setting.
Our final stop before entering Florence will be at the American Military cemetery located right outside Florence. The compelling sight of endless rows of white marble crosses recalls the heroism of the young Americans who fought so valiantly to free Italy from the grips of fascism during World War II. Their sacrifice made it possible for us to enjoy al that we have seen on this tour today. The 1940's seems very long ago, but during WWII this area was terribly ravaged by the fighting. There is little to show today of that tumultuous time, but this cemetery.
You will have your first opportunity to see Florence in all its glory from the panoramic Piazzale Michelangelo. This is a great place for a group photo. Once again, our hotel is located in the historical center on via Tornabuoni. This is the "Rodeo Drive" of Florence with some of the most beautiful and well known designer shops in Italy. There will be time to rest and perhaps enjoy a glass of wine on the hotel terrace before we meet for an orientation walk around our hotel followed by dinner together in a simple Florentine trattoria. (B) (L) (D)
Day 11 - Florence - Timeless City of the Medici - Tuesday, May 26, 2009
Your morning guided tour of Florence is highlighted with the famous Duomo and the Baptistry with its legendary bronze doors known as the "Gates of Paradise". The tour includes a walk through the Renaissance streets of Florence to the Piazza Republica (the one time Roman forum) and the sculpture-studded Piazza della Signoria, passing one of the city's many leather markets. After a short break, you will cross the Ponte Vecchio, the oldest bridge in Florence with its many gold and silver shops to entice you. You will also visit the Santa Trinita Church for a lesson on fresco painting.
You will have the rest of the day to enjoy Florence as you wish. You may want to visit one of the many fine museums, such as the Uffizi Gallery, Accademia, or Bargello. If you are interested, I can arrange tickets or tours that help you avoid waiting in the long lines . Also, do not miss my favorite gelato shop near the Ponte Vecchio, in case anyone wants a snack. (My favorite is peanut butter) If you are a chocolate lover, then you must also pay a visit to Rivoire, a wonderful cafe located on the Piazza della Signoria. It will tempt you with its fancy desserts and thick hot chocolate. Of course, you may want to shop for gifts or souvenirs in the numerous shops and markets that Florence is so well known for.
Tonight we will dine in something of an institution in Florence. Il Latini is crowded, noisy and fun. You are served huge portions of Tuscan favorites on long tables family style. It will be an experience to remember. (B) (D)
Day 12 - Bella Firenze! - Wednesday, May 27, 2009
Today will be the last day of the tour and we will spend the morning visiting one of Tuscany's most famous sights, the Leaning Tower of Pisa. We will take the train to Pisa where you will be able to enjoy the Field of Miracles with its famous bell tower, Romanesque Duomo and ornate Baptistery all located on the best lawn in Italy. Pisa is pretty much a touristy quickie, but you will never forget the amazing tower and will surely want to snap that photo with you trying to hold it up. We will stop for lunch in a nice restaurant near the tower which will be our "farewell" meal together. After we return to Florence we will make a quick stop on the walk back to the hotel at the ancient perfumery of Santa Maria Novella, well known for centuries for its top-quality products. Thick with the lingering aroma of centuries of spritzes, it started as the herb garden of the Santa Maria Novella monks. The church of Santa Maria Novella is located next door in case you would like to stop and visit. (It was even featured in the movie 'Hannibal'.)
Since most of you will be getting ready for your long journey home, you will probably want to spend the rest of the afternoon and evening packing and making last minute purchases. I will offer an optional dinner tonight in the Oltrarno (across the Arno) that you are welcome to join, but will certainly understand if you want to turn in early to be ready for your long day tomorrow. (B) (L)
Day 13 - Arrivederci Italia! - Thursday, May 28, 2009
Parting will certainly be "sweet sorrow", as you make your way to the airport or train station for your trip home or to another Italian destination. You can stay on in Florence longer if you wish. Whatever you choose, I know you take along wonderful memories of the best of Tuscany and Rome spent with new friends. (B)
(Included meals are designated each day with (B) for breakfast, (L) for lunch, and (D) for dinner.)