Day 5 - La Dolce Vita! - Friday, June 4, 2010
Today we will enjoy Tuscany at its best by visiting some out of the way spots in the beautiful Chianti area. We will start with a visit to Brolio Castle set high on a hill with views for miles around. It has been owned by the Ricasoli family since 1167 and is still home to the current Baron Ricasoli. You will enjoy this step back into the life of a noble family. We may also have time to stop into the Cantine Barone Ricasoli for a sample of their famous wines. After all, the Ricasoli family were the ones to come up with the modern formula for the Chianti wines we enjoy today.
Then we will visit San Gusme', an off the beaten path medieval village that still retains its original early 1400s layout, with arched passageways, gates topped with coats of arms, narrow squares, and steep streets. You can walk the entire village in 20 minutes, but in those 20 minutes you may feel as if you have stepped back in time some 600 years.
After some time for lunch together we will stop at one of my favorite places in Tuscany. Badia a' Coltibuono (Abbey of the Good Harvest) was founded by Vallombrosan monks in the 11th century. Today it is the home to Lorenza de' Medici's family (famous for her PBS cooking show) and now produces famous Chianti wines. It is also home to one of the most renown cooking classes in Tuscany, "The Villa Table". It is truly one of the most beautiful and peaceful places that I have found on my wanderings through Tuscany. We will take a guided tour of the abbey, which is now the family home, visiting the cloisters, old aging cellars, and the Renaissance-style garden filled with herbs, lemons, and roses. There is a small shop, L'Osteria, where you can taste and purchase Coltibuono's wine and honey, as well as pick up other items like homemade beeswax hand lotion in little ceramic dishes. (If anyone would be interested in attending the day long cooking class at Badia a' Coltibuono, please let me know.)
We will make one last stop on our little tour of 'out of the way' Tuscany in Vertine. This charming hamlet is documented as far back as the 10th century. The walled town is oval in shape and has a tall watchtower guarding the city gate. A walk along the still unspoiled streets gives you a glimpse of life in a Tuscan hill town as it once was, and the views of the rolling countryside from the occasional opening in the walls are spectacular.
The evening will be yours to enjoy Castellina and the beautiful surrounding countryside. (B) (L)
Day 6 - City of Towers - Saturday, June 5, 2010
Saturday morning is Market Day in Castellina. It is a very small market, but do not pass up the chance to visit some of the stalls lining the street and get a peek into the weekly life of everyday Italians.
On the way to our next overnight destination, we will have the opportunity to stop by the Fattoria San Donato, a working farm that produces olive oil and a delicious white wine called Vernaccia. This is one of the few white wines produced in Tuscany. It is a fruity white that was said to be a favorite of Michelangelo. We are only a few miles from one of Tuscany's most popular towns, San Gimignano, the City of Towers. (Also known as the 'Medieval Manhattan')
San Gimignano seems to be a favorite stop on the tour. Saturday is usually a pretty busy day in San Gimignano and you will have the opportunity to mingle with the locals who will be out doing their weekend shopping. After a short walking tour of the main sights in town, you will have most of the day to just enjoy this lovable village. You may want to climb the Torre Grande, the highest tower in San Gimignano that affords expansive views over the surrounding countryside. Beware, there are some of the best artisan shops right down the street. This has always been an important trading center. It was on the famous Via Francigena: the most traveled of the medieval roads that pilgrims traveled to Rome. From the 8th Century, it was the route through France that linked Canterbury Cathedral in England and Rome, the heart of Christianity. Today you will find locally owned shops selling ceramics, soaps, alabaster, olive wood items, leather goods, etc. You will find a great selection of paintings and prints of the Tuscan area. There are some wonderful walking trails around and I know of a spot where you can rent bikes if you would like. (San Gimignano was the setting for the WWII drama 'Tea With Mussolini')
Our hotel is located right in the middle of town on the Piazza Cisterna. We will meet in the evening to join the locals for their evening stroll (passeggiata) before our "dinner with a view" in the La Terraza restaurant. There is also an award winning gelato shop located right across from our hotel that you must not miss. (B) (D)